Leopard Gecko Caresheet
By Denise Wilscam
Distribution
The leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius) is a ground-dwelling lizard found in the deserts of Asia and throughout Pakistan, to the northwestern parts of India. Unlike most geckos, leopard geckos possess movable eyelids. To this day it has become one of the most well-established and popular pets in captivity. The native habitat of the leopard gecko is the rocky, dry grassland and desert regions of south-Asian Afghanistan, Pakistan, north-west India, and some parts of Iran. Winter temperatures in these areas can be quite low, below 10 °C (50 °F), forcing the animals underground into semi-hibernation, called brumation, living on fat reserves. Leopard geckos are crepuscular (active during night) reptiles; they are limited to the burrows during the day but become active at dawn and dusk when the temperature is favorable. These geckos are solitary, and do not usually live with other animals.
Diet
Leopard geckos are strickly insectivores (insect eating) reptiles. I feed mine a mealworm and dubia roach diet. Many people will feed superworms and crickets but I've heard to many horror stories I don't want to take the chance. Dubia roaches are by far (in my opinion) the best insect to feed your gecko. Dubia roaches have a soft exoskelton making them easier to digest and are high is calcium and protein. I dust mine with repcal calcium every feeding and a repcal multivitamin once a week. I also leave a dish of the calcium in their setup at all times so they can get what they want when they need it. I also provide a bowl of fresh water at all times.
Set-Up
One adult leopard gecko can be raised in a 10 gallon aquarium in a 15 quart tub if you use racks. For the substrate in my racks I use paper towels (makes for easy cleanup) and in my aquariums I used repti-carpet. There is a big debate between people on whether to use sand or not. It is my opinion to not use sand EVER. People will say if you feed them out of a bowl (which I do) then you won't have to worry about them eating sand. Leopard geckos lick everything. They do this as a way to explore their surroundings. Each time they lick they can get sand on their tongue and it builds up in their stomachs causing impaction which can lead to death. DO NOT USE SAND!!! :) Leopard geckos need to thermoregulate (they need a cool side and a warm side). On the warm side you need to have a uth (under tank heater) kept around 90 degrees. You can get a temperature regulator so that way it won't get to warm or not warm enough. It has to be around 90 degrees to properly digest their food. Abusolutly DO NOT use a hot rock. They can get to hot and seriously burn your gecko. Leopard geckos do not need any special lighting. They are nocturnal (active at night). Any lights could damage their eyes and cause them stress. Leopard geckos need hides. In my setups I have a hide and the warm side and a (moist hide) on the cool side. For my moist hides I used tupperware bowls with a opening cut out of the lid big enough for the gecko to get in and out. In the moist hides I either use a damp paper towel or ecoearth (coco fiber) and I use a spray bottle and dampen it when needed. They need the moist hide to properly shed their skin. Which as babies they shed atleast every week and as adults every month. If they don't have the proper amount of humidity to shed it can become stuck. Think of it as a rubber band wrapped around your finger. It cuts off the circulation. Main place geckos get stuck shed is on their toes (other places to, you just need to check them over every once in a while). You'll see geckos with missing toes and this is the main reason that happens.
Defense Mechanism
Leopard geckos have very sharp eyesite and can voluntarily detach their tails. That is one reason you should never grab your gecko by its tail because it can fall off. It grows back eventually but rarely looks the same as before. Children with leopard geckos need to be careful to not grab them by the tail.
I really hope you enjoy your new pet! Please feel free to contact me whenever you have any questions or concerns and I'll always be available to help you out. You can contact me on facebook or you can email me.
Denise Wilscam
Email: [email protected]
facebook: https://m.facebook.com/beareptiles?ref=bookmark
website: http://greenriverreptiles.weebly.com
By Denise Wilscam
Distribution
The leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius) is a ground-dwelling lizard found in the deserts of Asia and throughout Pakistan, to the northwestern parts of India. Unlike most geckos, leopard geckos possess movable eyelids. To this day it has become one of the most well-established and popular pets in captivity. The native habitat of the leopard gecko is the rocky, dry grassland and desert regions of south-Asian Afghanistan, Pakistan, north-west India, and some parts of Iran. Winter temperatures in these areas can be quite low, below 10 °C (50 °F), forcing the animals underground into semi-hibernation, called brumation, living on fat reserves. Leopard geckos are crepuscular (active during night) reptiles; they are limited to the burrows during the day but become active at dawn and dusk when the temperature is favorable. These geckos are solitary, and do not usually live with other animals.
Diet
Leopard geckos are strickly insectivores (insect eating) reptiles. I feed mine a mealworm and dubia roach diet. Many people will feed superworms and crickets but I've heard to many horror stories I don't want to take the chance. Dubia roaches are by far (in my opinion) the best insect to feed your gecko. Dubia roaches have a soft exoskelton making them easier to digest and are high is calcium and protein. I dust mine with repcal calcium every feeding and a repcal multivitamin once a week. I also leave a dish of the calcium in their setup at all times so they can get what they want when they need it. I also provide a bowl of fresh water at all times.
Set-Up
One adult leopard gecko can be raised in a 10 gallon aquarium in a 15 quart tub if you use racks. For the substrate in my racks I use paper towels (makes for easy cleanup) and in my aquariums I used repti-carpet. There is a big debate between people on whether to use sand or not. It is my opinion to not use sand EVER. People will say if you feed them out of a bowl (which I do) then you won't have to worry about them eating sand. Leopard geckos lick everything. They do this as a way to explore their surroundings. Each time they lick they can get sand on their tongue and it builds up in their stomachs causing impaction which can lead to death. DO NOT USE SAND!!! :) Leopard geckos need to thermoregulate (they need a cool side and a warm side). On the warm side you need to have a uth (under tank heater) kept around 90 degrees. You can get a temperature regulator so that way it won't get to warm or not warm enough. It has to be around 90 degrees to properly digest their food. Abusolutly DO NOT use a hot rock. They can get to hot and seriously burn your gecko. Leopard geckos do not need any special lighting. They are nocturnal (active at night). Any lights could damage their eyes and cause them stress. Leopard geckos need hides. In my setups I have a hide and the warm side and a (moist hide) on the cool side. For my moist hides I used tupperware bowls with a opening cut out of the lid big enough for the gecko to get in and out. In the moist hides I either use a damp paper towel or ecoearth (coco fiber) and I use a spray bottle and dampen it when needed. They need the moist hide to properly shed their skin. Which as babies they shed atleast every week and as adults every month. If they don't have the proper amount of humidity to shed it can become stuck. Think of it as a rubber band wrapped around your finger. It cuts off the circulation. Main place geckos get stuck shed is on their toes (other places to, you just need to check them over every once in a while). You'll see geckos with missing toes and this is the main reason that happens.
Defense Mechanism
Leopard geckos have very sharp eyesite and can voluntarily detach their tails. That is one reason you should never grab your gecko by its tail because it can fall off. It grows back eventually but rarely looks the same as before. Children with leopard geckos need to be careful to not grab them by the tail.
I really hope you enjoy your new pet! Please feel free to contact me whenever you have any questions or concerns and I'll always be available to help you out. You can contact me on facebook or you can email me.
Denise Wilscam
Email: [email protected]
facebook: https://m.facebook.com/beareptiles?ref=bookmark
website: http://greenriverreptiles.weebly.com
GOLDEN GATE GECKOS SLURRY:
This slurry was developed years ago when I was trying to rehabilitate sick geckos. It has helped save the lives of many geckos, and is being recommended and used by many veterinarians and Universities now. Keep in mind that this slurry IS NOT medicine, nor will it cure anything! It is designed to be used as nutrition for anorexic geckos that are off-food and being treated by a veterinarian for a diagnosed clinical disease or illness. Here is my recipe for the mixture:
In a blender, combine:
1 small can Hill's A/D pet food (available at most vets)
OR
6 oz. prepared Oxbow Carnivore Care
1 jar baby food squash
¼ cup Ensure (not chocolate)
¼ cup Pedialite
Contents of 2 capsules Milk Thistle (herbal supplement, liver purifier, found at most drug stores)
¼ tsp. each calcium powder and herp vitamin powder
3-5 X-large handfuls of mealworms, added slowly while mixture is blending
Puree all ingredients until completely smooth, adding mealworms until mixture is the consistency of milkshake. Pour into ice cube tray and freeze. Store frozen cubes in a zip-lock bag in the freezer until ready to use, then thaw out 1 cube at a time in the empty baby food jar at room temperature. Keep thawed slurry in the refrigerator for up to 3-4 days, washing the jar and lid thoroughly after each batch.
Using this mixture, draw a full 1ml dropper (eye dropper type) for adults, and 1/2 dropper for juveniles, and place a drop on the gecko's nose, and avoid plugging the nostrils. Be patient and do not force-feed! The gecko will lick it off its nose, and as it does, slowly squeeze out a little at a time as the gecko licks it. Be careful not to let the gecko choke, allowing for time to swallow. Most geckos love this food, and will lap it up. Patience is a key factor!
* NEVER tell anyone you put mealworms in the blender!
RECIPE COURTESY OF GOLDEN GATE GECKOS
This slurry was developed years ago when I was trying to rehabilitate sick geckos. It has helped save the lives of many geckos, and is being recommended and used by many veterinarians and Universities now. Keep in mind that this slurry IS NOT medicine, nor will it cure anything! It is designed to be used as nutrition for anorexic geckos that are off-food and being treated by a veterinarian for a diagnosed clinical disease or illness. Here is my recipe for the mixture:
In a blender, combine:
1 small can Hill's A/D pet food (available at most vets)
OR
6 oz. prepared Oxbow Carnivore Care
1 jar baby food squash
¼ cup Ensure (not chocolate)
¼ cup Pedialite
Contents of 2 capsules Milk Thistle (herbal supplement, liver purifier, found at most drug stores)
¼ tsp. each calcium powder and herp vitamin powder
3-5 X-large handfuls of mealworms, added slowly while mixture is blending
Puree all ingredients until completely smooth, adding mealworms until mixture is the consistency of milkshake. Pour into ice cube tray and freeze. Store frozen cubes in a zip-lock bag in the freezer until ready to use, then thaw out 1 cube at a time in the empty baby food jar at room temperature. Keep thawed slurry in the refrigerator for up to 3-4 days, washing the jar and lid thoroughly after each batch.
Using this mixture, draw a full 1ml dropper (eye dropper type) for adults, and 1/2 dropper for juveniles, and place a drop on the gecko's nose, and avoid plugging the nostrils. Be patient and do not force-feed! The gecko will lick it off its nose, and as it does, slowly squeeze out a little at a time as the gecko licks it. Be careful not to let the gecko choke, allowing for time to swallow. Most geckos love this food, and will lap it up. Patience is a key factor!
* NEVER tell anyone you put mealworms in the blender!
RECIPE COURTESY OF GOLDEN GATE GECKOS